As all those who love dress shirts know, in many parts of the world the term “button down” is not only used incorrectly, but carries with it an unfortunate connotation of conservatism and close-mindedness. But, contrary to popular belief, button down shirts are a unique variant of the traditional dress shirt, and are actually anything but stodgy and conventional.
To be accurate, button down shirts feature collars with tips which can be buttoned to the base of the shirt (see above). They date back to 1900, when they were invented for polo players as a way to prevent collar tips from flapping in their face during competitions.
While they might not be suitable for hitting the gym today, because of their genesis on the athletic field – and the colorful madras, gingham and check patterns they often feature – many casual wear retailers still sell button down shirts as part of their sports collections. Of course, you don’t have to play the sport of kings to wear button down shirts, and many look at them as the perfect attire for well-heeled lounging.
Button down shirts are different in a few ways from the traditional dress shirts which may be stocking your closet. For one thing they often have smaller and softer collars. Also, they usually feature thinner, less formal cuffs – French cuffs pinned together with studs or links will probably look pretty hideous on a button down shirt without a serious case of sprezzatura. But even if you’ve got the fortitude to wear such a shirt, good luck finding one anywhere; in fact, it may even take some convincing to get a tailor to make one for you.
The button down shirt also provides some unique conundrums as far as how it should be worn. The most obvious question they arouse being: should the tips be left unbutton? This is actually one of the great debates of the men’s fashion world, with just as many people giving an emphatic “yes” as appalled “no”.
Interestingly, age seems to have little to do with one’s take on this question, with an equal number of youngsters and mature fashion mavens weighing in on either side of the argument. As far as we’re concerned, in really informal situations, like going to the grocery store or a sitting in a coffee shop, buttoning is optional. For those hoping to avoid this kind of feud altogether hidden button collars are also available.
When wearing a button down shirt with a tie, the tips should probably be fastened. Sure, it does look pretty Ivy League/prep school-ish, especially if done in coordination with khakis, casual shoes and a blazer or sport coat – we don’t recommend a suit, which, again, is too formal – but the alternative of leaving the tips unrestrained with a tie is just too sloppy (and slightly feminine).
With the help of a mirror it should take you about 5 seconds max to button your collar, so play it safe, look presentable, and go the extra mile. Sometimes looking casual is still serious business, even when wearing something as informal as a button down shirt.
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